The kokubunsoji temple in Obama is also known as Wakasa Kokubunji. Though its history goes back much farther, the current main hall, the Shakado, was rebuilt in 1705. As you enter this simple yet commanding hall, you will find yourself before a striking wooden statue of Shakyamuni Buddha. The statue depicts the historical Buddha in a seated position and is also known as Shaka Joroku (“the Five-Meter Buddha”) in reference to the Buddha’s height if he were standing.

This statue is an example of yosegi-zukuri, a technique in which blocks of wood are first carved separately and then joined together to complete the sculpture. The left hand of the Buddha makes the mudra (symbolic gesture) of dispelling fear, with the palm facing forward and the fingers extended. The right hand is held in the mudra of blessing, with the palm facing upward, showing that the Buddha is willing to fulfill people’s wishes. These two gestures often appear together and are characteristic of Shakyamuni Buddha statues.

Seven smaller Buddhist images called kebutsu are attached to the halo behind the statue. If you look closely, you will see that each one is making a different mudra. The kebutsu are said to represent various manifestations of Shakyamuni Buddha, appearing in different forms to save all sentient beings. Similar kebutsu can be seen on the halo of the Great Buddha of Todaiji Temple in Nara.

One of the reasons the statue of Shakyamuni Buddha at Kokubunji is held in such high esteem lies in its closeness to the hearts of the townspeople who worship it. The main hall is a favorite playground for the children, and the chief abbot himself played beside the statue when he was a boy. A local children’s organization dedicated to caring for cultural properties carries out various activities at the temple, including cleaning, to foster a spirit of protection and respect for the space where the Buddha resides.

On the outskirts of the current temple grounds is the excavated site of the original Wakasa Kokubunji Temple. Ruins such as foundation stones and stairs show where the former Nandaimon Gate, Chumon Gate, Kondo (Main Hall), and Kodo (Lecture Hall) were built. The location of the temple, surrounded by the Kita, Onyu, and Matsunaga Rivers, also suggests that it was considered a very important place. The remains of the original Kokubunji Temple are a designated National Historic Site.

The small Wakasahime Jinja Shrine adjacent to the ruins is built atop an ancient burial mound (kofun) that was originally constructed in the sixth century. With a diameter of about 50 meters, it is quite large for a round tumulus. Throughout Japan, there are very few examples of a kokubunji temple located beside a burial mound in this way. Why was Wakasahime Shrine founded here? Why is there a kofun so close to the temple? Exploring the site provides plenty of mysteries to muse upon.

Walking along the perimeter of the Shakado Hall, you will come upon a small pond filled with lotuses that bloom in summer. The sight of these gorgeous flowers, long associated with Buddhism and representing purity, will make you feel as if you have entered the world of the Buddha. Even after you have left the statues behind, the connection with history will linger.